Hi! Yes, there is definitely some variance with calibration with the original Peloton bikes. I did a couple of rides at the studio in NY and the bikes were both harder than my bike at home. Peloton said somewhere that there was a variance of about 10% but it does seem to be more than that in some cases. There's info out there on how to re-calibrate your bike.This is random, but I’m so curious:
I was using a friend’s bike for a few months and fell in love with it. Bought one of my own and just received it. It feels much harder than the bike I was using before. My output is half what it used to be. Anyone know anything about this? Or have any suggestions?
Thanks!
Thank you for this info! I was beating myself up because my output was so much lower. Both bikes are the first version, not the Bike+.Hi! Yes, there is definitely some variance with calibration with the original Peloton bikes. I did a couple of rides at the studio in NY and the bikes were both harder than my bike at home. Peloton said somewhere that there was a variance of about 10% but it does seem to be more than that in some cases. There's info out there on how to re-calibrate your bike.
If you have a Bike+ those are supposed to re-calibrate digitally so there shouldn't be a difference in theory.
Thank you for this info! I was beating myself up because my output was so much lower. Both bikes are the first version, not the Bike+.
Hi! Yes, there is definitely some variance with calibration with the original Peloton bikes. I did a couple of rides at the studio in NY and the bikes were both harder than my bike at home. Peloton said somewhere that there was a variance of about 10% but it does seem to be more than that in some cases. There's info out there on how to re-calibrate your bike.
If you have a Bike+ those are supposed to re-calibrate digitally so there shouldn't be a difference in theory.
I have experienced much more than 10% variance in a new original bike that I took delivery of at a second residence vs the original bike at primary residence. Similar to comments by many people upgrading to bike+. Moving back and forth between locations and these two bikes and having to retest FTP and reset PRs as people suggest is tremendously frustrating and frankly makes comparable performance to other riders irrelevant. I ordered a second original bike instead of a bike+ assuming there would be more consistency between my two bikes. Feels like the rapid demand growth and higher productions rates is resulting in reduced quality control on this calibration consistency and a host of other service issues. Is there any way to adjust calibration on my new bike to make it more consistent with my original bike?Hi! Yes, there is definitely some variance with calibration with the original Peloton bikes. I did a couple of rides at the studio in NY and the bikes were both harder than my bike at home. Peloton said somewhere that there was a variance of about 10% but it does seem to be more than that in some cases. There's info out there on how to re-calibrate your bike.
If you have a Bike+ those are supposed to re-calibrate digitally so there shouldn't be a difference in theory.
I don't believe there's a way to calibrate the Bike+ as it is supposed to do it on it's own. From what I've heard it sounds like the Bike+ is more accurate (although harder) and consistent but I can see how that would be annoying if you are going back and forth. It sounds dumb, but I've been holding off on upgrading because I want to hit a couple of records e.g. 1K on a 45 minute ride and it sounds like if I upgrade that may never be attainableI have experienced much more than 10% variance in a new original bike that I took delivery of at a second residence vs the original bike at primary residence. Similar to comments by many people upgrading to bike+. Moving back and forth between locations and these two bikes and having to retest FTP and reset PRs as people suggest is tremendously frustrating and frankly makes comparable performance to other riders irrelevant. I ordered a second original bike instead of a bike+ assuming there would be more consistency between my two bikes. Feels like the rapid demand growth and higher productions rates is resulting in reduced quality control on this calibration consistency and a host of other service issues. Is there any way to adjust calibration on my new bike to make it more consistent with my original bike?
I did not upgrade to bike+. I bought a second original bike thinking it would be more consistent with what I already had. I'm asking about recalibrating the new original bike. As it stands now I will never come close to a PR on the new bike in my 2nd home as my total ride output is at least 25-35% off of a good strong ride on my 1st bike and I am totally wasted after the ride. Am even further behind ever achieving my PRs. I've had to drop from my normal 45 min or 1 hr rides to 30 min if I care about maintaining the target Resistance and Cadence for the level of rides I've become accustomed to on my 1st bike. Going to give it a bit more time to see if I can adapt some, or learn what I can do to recalibrate. Otherwise I guess I will need to retest for FTP as there is no way I can maintain my current zones on this bike during any Power Zone ride, then retest again when I get back to my primary home bike.I don't believe there's a way to calibrate the Bike+ as it is supposed to do it on it's own. From what I've heard it sounds like the Bike+ is more accurate (although harder) and consistent but I can see how that would be annoying if you are going back and forth. It sounds dumb, but I've been holding off on upgrading because I want to hit a couple of records e.g. 1K on a 45 minute ride and it sounds like if I upgrade that may never be attainable
I've had the same experience. I tried my son's bike in November and bought my own in December. The resistance seems much more stiff and guests who have their own Peloton bike also say the same after they've tried my new bike. I did not tell them in advance that I though the resistance was "tough". The calibration must vary noticeably between bikes. This in my opinion is something that Peloton should correct.This is random, but I’m so curious:
I was using a friend’s bike for a few months and fell in love with it. Bought one of my own and just received it. It feels much harder than the bike I was using before. My output is half what it used to be. Anyone know anything about this? Or have any suggestions?
Thanks!
Who rides in and follows by watts and output? This is totally irrelevant based on calibration. If Calibration is off, it may be super easy to ride at any output, even 300 to 800. I don't think you understand what calibration is. And you are better of using Power Zone training a n not output.Calibration does vary widely in my experience. Here are my 4 data points. I have a non-peloton bike where the readings typically are between 100 and 150 W seated maxing out around 175 for a few minutes at low cadence. I then stayed in a hotel with two peloton bikes. The first one I tried I put in about the same effort as I do at home it was in the high 100 and low 200 watt range. The next day I tried the bike next to it, and I was showing in the high twos and even low 300 watt range. I liked the peloton experience so much I then bought one. And it is like the bike I had where I can ride comfortably in 100 to 150 watt range and cannot come even close to the readings I was getting on the two bikes in the hotel.
You didn’t understand the point of my post. I wasn’t riding by reference to the watts or output. I rode four different bikes within a couple of weeks of other, two of them on consecutive days, at essentially the same effort level and the output readings were completely different. Which is a calibration issue. Same effort, yielding wildly, different results, including one that was more than double the others is a calibration issue.Who rides in and follows by watts and output? This is totally irrelevant based on calibration. If Calibration is off, it may be super easy to ride at any output, even 300 to 800. I don't think you understand what calibration is. And you are better of using Power Zone training a n not output.
How do you know you had the same effort? Calibration has nothing to do with X-Resistance x Y-Cadence = Z-Output. Resistance has to do with how difficult the resistance is to the member at a specific setting. A mis-calibrated bike could allow someone to hand crank the pedals with their pinky at 70 resistance, while most people would be required to be sitting the the bike, strapped in and pedaling. In both cases the output would be the same. The output on the display is a digital calculation that is the same for all bikes. X times Y = Z output. The calibration determines how hard it is to pedal. There's a post from Peloton a while back that explains this clearly on their Facebook page. With that said, this applies only to the Original Bike. Bike+ has automatic calibration so there technically should be no difference between any Bike+.You didn’t understand the point of my post. I wasn’t riding by reference to the watts or output. I rode four different bikes within a couple of weeks of other, two of them on consecutive days, at essentially the same effort level and the output readings were completely different. Which is a calibration issue. Same effort, yielding wildly, different results, including one that was more than double the others is a calibration issue.
I have two bikes in two different houses. One bike is easier so I go way over what the suggested cadence is to overcompensate, but get the same result.This is random, but I’m so curious:
I was using a friend’s bike for a few months and fell in love with it. Bought one of my own and just received it. It feels much harder than the bike I was using before. My output is half what it used to be. Anyone know anything about this? Or have any suggestions?
Thanks!
I’m having the same problem on my new bike+. Output is wildly different. It would be nice if instructors cued classes or addressed the discrepancy. Why aren’t they riding the new bikes? It’s a bummer that I can barely hit the lowest range of their resistance and cadences. I’ve been riding for over 4 years…Not a scientific test or a large sample size, but it seems the problem is solved with the Bike+. Those who I know who have the Bike+ generally get even and proportional outputs. Those on the original Bike are all over the place. I'm assuming cause it's manually calibrated vs the digital calibration of the Bike+. Would be nice if 1) there were some instructors using the Bike+ (maybe there are, but the ones I watch don't), and 2) a separate leaderboard for Bike & Bike+
